August, a time to begin
harvesting the bounty of the gardens, and having in mind to store and/or
share. For some gardeners, this may be a
second coming for crops such as tomatoes, squashes, peppers, and other hardy
vegetables. Potatoes, onions and garlic
are dug up and placed in root cellars; or heavy duty containers layered with
straw. Herbs have been clipped, tied,
labeled and hung upside down for drying; their aromatic scents soothing the
mind, body and soul.
However, that does not
mean that the enticement to eat is thinking about hibernation. The colors of vegetables tickle the mind with
recipe ideas. The tomato fruit ripened
sweet, begging to be sliced and eaten.
Perhaps layered upon toasted rustic bread, smeared with garlic and
paired with Buffalo mozzarella and savory leaves of basil.
So comes an introduction
to another Italian dish, Pizzaiola. “Pizza”
is within the name, but the inclusion of tomatoes, garlic and onions is as far
as it goes. Hailing from Campania,
Naples, Pizzaiola features a Neapolitan style of cooking, focusing on cheaper
cuts of meat. The meat is sliced, or cut
into pieces or strips, and cooked slowly in a sauce of tomatoes, olive oil and
oregano; some versions include garlic, capers, peppers and basil. It is a way
of making a hardy meal with what little you have to work with. So on to my
story...
I have made this dish
during my first marriage, but my ex-husband always hated it. Funny thing about him was, his ancestry was
Italian and he disliked Italian foods.
Should have known right then there was something not quite right about
him; never trust an Italian that does not enjoy food of his own heritage. However, that is water under the bridge, and
my second husband, Roy has enjoyed all I have made. Well, except for Eggplant Parmigiana which we
both dislike. Oh, I will make it for
those who ask for it, I do not discriminate when it comes to culinary
cultures.
Anyway, back to the Pizzaiola
which I typically make with thinly sliced chuck steak which is cheaper, but
also fattier in texture. To tenderize,
lightly sprinkle salt, ground black pepper and red wine vinegar (two
tablespoons) over the sliced meat (two pounds).
Wrap in plastic and refrigerate overnight.
Defrosted was a one quart
container of vegetarian pasta sauce containing a pureed mixture of tomatoes,
eggplant (see, it has its uses), zucchini, red bell peppers, garlic, onions and
Italian herbs. However, the garden has
been harvested; hitting the vegetable bin: tomatoes, onions, zucchini,
mushrooms (store bought) and green bell peppers. The colors would be amazing in
the skillet, simmering in my rich sauce with slices of steak!
Now let’s put this
masterpiece together, shall we?
Carefully unwrap the meat
on a large plate, or juices will be running all over your counter. Using a large, deep skillet, add two
tablespoons of olive oil, high heat, and sear the meat on both sides. If you happen to use a leaner cut of beef,
it is not very fatty, so leave it in just long enough to get the sear, but not
cook it completely. Fattier meats will take a bit longer and you want to
discard the melted fat, or you'll end up with an oil slick on your sauce. Yuck!
Give the skillet a wipe
down with a paper towel; now spread two cups of sauce in the pan and lay the
beef on top of the sauce.
Typically I would just use sliced onions, but
this time I was going for the whole color palette. Two tomatoes cut into
wedges, 1/4 lb. of sliced white mushrooms, two sliced zucchini, one julienned
green bell pepper, and one sliced large onion. There was no need for extra
minced garlic or Italian herbs as it was already in my sauce. Yes, yes, some of
these vegetables were already in the vegetarian pasta sauce, but they had been
cooked down and pureed. We were going for texture here. Spread the vegetables
over the steak. 
Spread remaining sauce
over all and work it between the vegetables with a spoon.
Cover the skillet with a
lid, set the heat on medium-low and let it cook for two hours. Occasionally
stir the sauce throughout the vegetables and meat; if the sauce is bubbling
hard and splattering, reduce the heat to low. Since it will be cooking for two
hours, you do not have to rush to make your pasta, but have it ready once the Pizzaiola
is done. 
Usually the Pizzaiola is served over Rigatoni; this tubular pasta with
ridges catches onto, and holds the sauce so well. Use a slotted spoon to remove the meat and as
much of the veggies as you can to a serving platter. Take your cooked pasta and
immerse it into the sauce remaining in the skillet and let it cook together for
about five minutes. This will allow the pasta to pick up the flavors from the sauce.
There should be eight
servings to this meal, however, Roy overindulged and doubled up on his plate. I just love that man, and he so loves my
cooking. Watching him eat, and the
pleasure on his face, it just fills my heart with love and joy.
Anyway, if you want to
impress your family and/or guests, consider making this Italian dish.
Thinking to yourself, how
do I make this a more romantic meal for two?
Embark on a new adventure into Pizzaiola, making it a luxurious cruise
using London broil. The evening before, cut the London broil into one inch pieces,
seasoned with salt, ground black pepper and a sprinkling (two tablespoons) of
red wine, instead of red wine vinegar.
Encased in plastic wrap, the meat marinates overnight, the red wine infusing
a heady flavor, and tenderizing as well. Spoon the Pizzaiola over long, flat strands
of Tagliatelle, and perhaps have a Lady and the Tramp moment. Do not
forget the candlelight!
Mary Cokenour
