An Italian Influence on New Orleans.

When it comes to the cuisines of New Orleans, most are familiar with those of French Creole or Cajun descent.  However, between 1880s and 1920s, a wave of Italian immigrants made their way down to Louisiana, primarily New Orleans.  At first, they were the major traders and providers of fruit, opening stalls in the French Market and the Poydras Market.  The majority of these Italian immigrants came from Sicily, and with fishing being a primary industry, they eventually began to run the docks and wharves.

So, it was not a surprise that shops and stalls began to open that provided a look-see into Sicilian cuisine.  Within the Central Market area was a little community named “Little Palermo” which offered many foods, condiments, spices, and other ingredients associated with Sicily’s food culture.  In 1906, Salvatore Lupo opened his shop, Central Grocery with breads, meats cheeses and an olive-vegetable spread.  But he decided to go one better than offering items separately; he decided to create a sandwich that would one up any other meat and cheese simple sandwich.  Taking a round loaf of “muffuletto” bread, oh, wait, I better explain what this bread is. 

Alright, remember in the March 12, 2025 edition of the San Juan Record, the article on Irish Soda Bread, and I mentioned other types of round crusty breads?  Muffuletto is, again, a round loaf, but the exterior and interior are both soft, it is covered in sesame seeds, and of Sicilian origin.  Though it is round, it does not rise to the point of being dome-like, so thinner, and makes it easier to compress down when making a “loaded” sandwich.  The word muffuletto loosely translates, in Sicilian, as “soft and spongy bread”, while “muffe” means “mold or mushroom” as the bread loaf resembles a mushroom cap.

Now to the sandwich that Lupo created; cutting the bread in half lengthwise, the cut sides had an olive-vegetable spread generously spread to the ends.  Then layers of various meats and provolone cheese were built up atop one side of the bread, and topped with the other side.  The sandwich was then compressed, allowing the liquid of the spread to seep, not just into the bread, but the meats and cheese as well.  Basically a 6-inch-thick sandwich became a 3-inch thinner sandwich, after compression, and having the cheese melt during the process helped keeping it all together.  The sandwich was wrapped tightly in parchment paper to hold it together, as well, until ready to be eaten.

A traditional muffaletta sandwich features a combination of Genoa salami, mortadella, and a sliced ham, plus provolone cheese.  However, other meats can be substituted or added to give a greater taste explosion. 

Genoa salami - dry-cured sausage made from coarsely ground pork and seasoned with garlic, salt, and black pepper.

Mortadella - cured pork sausage containing chopped pistachios

Capicola - Italian dry-cured ham aged for several months.

Soppressata - Italian dry-cured salami, seasoned with spices of chili peppers, garlic, and cracked black pepper.

Prosciutto - dry-cured ham made from the hind legs of the pig; the flavor is sweet and salty.

Other meats that can also be used - sopressa, pepperoni, coppa, or speck.

After making this sandwich, my hubby shared it with one of his friends, and they were both blown away by the flavors and textures.  The recipe I will be sharing lists all the meats I used for this creation.

If muffuletto bread cannot be found in any bakery or market, there is many a recipe out there for making at home.  Careful though, I have seen many recipes do the “bake at high temperature, then reduce to a lower, but still high temperature” instruction, then “bake till golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped”.  Those instructions are fine if the intention is a high-dome bread that is crusty on the outside.  Otherwise, when shopping, try to find a round loaf that is soft on the outside and not as high-dome, as say, a French Boule.

 

Here is a recipe for making a Muffaletta, also written as Muffuletta, Sandwich which happens to be one of the most beloved and iconic sandwiches, along with the Po’boy, of New Orleans.  Why?  It was invented in the “Big Easy” of course!

 

 Muffaletta Sandwich

Ingredients:

Olive-Vegetable Spread

3/4 cup pitted mixed oil-packed olives, do not drain

1/2 cup giardiniera (Italian-style pickled vegetable salad), do not drain

1/4 cup chopped roasted red peppers

2 Tbsp.  dried, crushed parsley leaves

1 tsp. minced garlic  

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

 

 

1 large muffaletta-style roll (round Italian bread or ciabatta, soft exterior, 9-inch diameter)

 

 

 

 

 

Divide meats and cheese into thirds.

1/3 lb. thinly sliced soppressata  

1/3 lb. thinly sliced mortadella  

1/3 lb. thinly sliced capicola  

1/3 lb. thinly sliced prosciutto

¾ lb. thinly sliced provolone cheese  

 

 

 

Preparation:

Combine olives, giardiniera, peppers, parsley and garlic into food processor or blender; chop until no pieces larger than 1/4-inch remain. Transfer to bowl; add olive oil and vinegar; stir to combine.  Place in refrigerator for two hours to allow absorption of oil and vinegar into vegetables.

Split bread in half lengthwise; spread each cut surface generously with vegetable spread.  Begin layering one-third of meats and cheese, ending with cheese. Carefully place top half of bread on top; press down gently to compress.  Wrap tightly in plastic, place in refrigerator, place heavy weight on top to keep compressing the sandwich for one hour.  Cut into triangular wedges to serve.

 

 

Olive Vegetable Spread on Open Sides of Bread.

 

 

Begin Layering - Cheese, Meats.

 

Continue Layering, Ending with Cheese

 

Place Top Half of Bread on top.

 

 

Compress Down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wrap and Place Weight on top to continue compressing.

 

Sandwich After Compression.

 

Muffaletta Cut in Half.

 

 Serves 4-6.

Mary-letta Sandwich.

 

Italian not your style, and prefer something more “American”?  Instead of the meats listed, use a combination of thinly sliced roast beef, oven roasted turkey or chicken, and Black Forest or honey ham.  For the cheese, use thinly sliced baby Swiss cheese.  The olive-vegetable spread will still work well, or spread a light layer of horseradish sauce and pickle relish on both cut sides of the bread.  Remember to still do the compression and resting stages, so all the flavors can mesh together.

My husband, Roy, named this sandwich the "Mary-letta Sandwich".

Mary Cokenour

 

Relishing the Ploughman’s Lunch.

Ah, the English countryside with rolling hills of green grasses, wildflowers, and forests; valleys with villages nestled deep within; cattle grazing and sheep blocking the roadways.  Driving into one of these quaint villages, parking outside the pub, walking in and being greeted by the publican and his smiling wife.

“What it’ll be yer having?”, he asked, and you answer with, “A pint of bitter and ploughman’s lunch will do me fine.”  “Right then, let me get to pouring while the wife puts together yer food.  Sit anywhere yer like, oh oy, don’t be minding that body at the far table.  Constable will be coming soon to clean that all up.”

….and welcome to Midsomer, where murder is as frequent as a leaky roof on the local church.

All this past week I have been enjoying another marathon of watching “Midsomer Murders” using a free streaming service, Tubi.  Twenty-three, of its twenty-five, seasons are available, the ads are few, and short in duration.   “Midsomer” began in 1997 and is still as popular in 2025 as when it first began, with DCI Tom Barnaby, or his cousin, DCI John Barnaby, a new DC every few years, and a variety of quirky characters, and villains of child age to senior; vicious, logical, insane or senile following typical motives of greed, lust, envy, and “just for the fun or it”.

One episode is from season 10 called “Sauce for the Goose” which starts with an unusual murder at the world renown Plummers Relish Factory. Tom Barnaby remarks to his wife, Joyce, “My father would put Plummers relish on his sandwiches every day.”  Plummers Piquant Relish was based upon the authentic and world renown English relish, Branston, but could not use the name due to copyright infringement.  When Barnaby read the ingredient label, “scotch bonnet”, a very hot pepper, was named, as this slight change would ensure, again, no copyright infringement of Branston’s.  

What is English relish?  A very flavorful mix of vegetables, apples, dates, raisins, vinegar, spices and flavorings.  It is actually a type of chutney which has its culinary roots in India, but there the product is definitely more on the hotter side of the Scoville scale. 

…and before you have to wonder, yes, we have Branston’s in our pantry, or, once opened, refrigerator, both original and small chunk varieties.  Roy likes to spread it on his sandwiches, both hot and cold, but not on a daily basis as with Tom Barnaby’s father.  Personally, I find the mixture of sweet, salty, tangy and savory to be too strong for my taste buds; while Roy can eat it by the spoonful.

 

The Ploughman's Lunch

Now to the second item which is the Ploughman’s Lunch.  Dating back to 14^th century England, a meal of bread, cheese, onions, sliced meat (if any was to be had) and fruit (apples or wild berries) was simple to gather up into a pouch, and carry out to work.  In the 1950s, the Cheese Bureau created the name, “Ploughman’s Lunch” to get the populace more interested in eating cheese after World War 2.  The Milk Marketing Board began using the name, in the 1960s, to push the idea of a simple, wholesome and delicious meal.  Of course, any pub, worth its salt, would have it on the menu alongside Shepherd’s Pie, Fish and Chips, Bangers and Mash, Toad in the Hole and Steak and Kidney Pie.

Ah, the Charcuterie board, which the French began creating in the 15^th century, but for the rich and royal.  It consisted of a variety of richer and finer cheeses, breads, meats, condiments, fruits, nuts and paired with the finest wines.  It seems to have become all the rage in the USA, since the end of the pandemic, when folks could socialize once more, and actually share foods from the same platter.

But, when it comes to “Who did it first?”, that goes to Italy, when in ancient Rome, the antipasto platter was served at the start of a banquet.  Its main goal was to stimulate the appetite, so the main meal could be eaten with gusto. 

 

Branston Pickle Relish

While Branston’s is available for purchase via Amazon, I was able to find an English food blogger who has a copycat recipe of the product.  The difference is, she does not use all the preservatives needed for the jars to sit on store shelves, or in warehouses, indefinitely.

 

English Pickle Relish

(Culinary Ginger - https://culinaryginger.com/english-pickle-relish/ )

For cube size, original or regular relish uses large dice, while small chunk uses small dice when cutting the fruits and vegetables.

Ingredients:

1 cup carrots, peeled and cut into small cubes

1/2 cup rutabaga, peeled and cut into small cubes (turnips or parsnips are good substitutes)

1/2 cup red apples, peeled and cut into small cubes

1 cup dates, chopped

1 cup raisins

1 cup white onions, finely chopped

1 cup dark brown sugar

1 and 3/4 cups malt vinegar

1/4 teaspoon mustard powder

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Instructions:

Add all ingredients to a large saucepan (2-quart); bring to a simmer (low heat) and cook for 1 hour until the rutabaga is tender and the liquid is reduced and syrupy, allow to cool.

The blogger’s method of sterilizing jars and lids:  Preheat oven to 225°F.

Wash the jars and lids in hot soapy water and rinse well. Place them on a baking sheet and allow them to dry in the preheated oven for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, turn off the oven and leave them in there until you are ready to use them.

 Fill the jars with the pickle and seal. Refrigerate for 2 weeks, then the pickle is ready to eat. For long term-preservation, will keep for up to 6 weeks when refrigerated

Yield: 8 - 16-ounce mason jars with a screw top lid.

Mary Cokenour

A Round and Crusty Old Soul.

Many a time I have written about a world renown comfort food called bread.  Every culture, every country, has a version that dates back historically to when grains were grown, ground and used to feed the community.  So, yes, it is a foundation for the continuance of a society, as is water, but why is it so comforting as well?

Scientifically, bread has a high carbohydrate content which contributes to the release of serotonin.  Serotonin is nicknamed the “feel good hormone” due its ability to regulate mood; namely feelings of happiness, well-being, and contentment.  It also promotes relaxation to induce sleepiness; interacts with cortisol and estrogen for hormonal balance, and influences cognitive functions for better learning and memory.

Remember when, at dinner time, a bread basket was always at the table.  Or, a basket of bread, crackers and butter was served at the table in restaurants.  Serotonin signals, to the body, when it is full, and helps to regulate digestion.  If you indulged the contents of that basket, now you know why you never did finish a complete dinner, and no room for dessert.

Serotonin, and the act of eating, is not all that makes bread comforting.   Baking bread can be therapeutic with its repetitive motions (kneading) which can relieve stress. Baking engages multiple senses of sight, smell, and touch. The aroma is associated with familiarity, tradition, gives a sense of security, and makes you feel pretty darned proud of yourself for creating something so tasty.

The focus of this article will be on Irish Soda Bread, but first a little information about round and crusty breads in general.  A "round, crusty bread" refers to a loaf shaped like a ball with a thick, crispy outer crust achieved through high baking temperatures and steam during the initial baking phase. While the crust of the bread has a firm crunch, the interior is an intricate webbing of ingredients that have been interwoven to create a softer and tender texture.

 

Types of rounds are the French Boule, Italian Ciabatta, Egyptian Sourdough (sorry San Francisco, but sourdough bread originated, in Egypt, around 1500 BCE), Irish Soda Bread and Basque (Spain) Sheepherder Bread (see San Juan Record, November 20, 2019, for full article).

…and now to my focus, Irish Soda Bread.

 

Irish soda bread is a quick bread made with baking soda, flour, salt, and buttermilk; no eggs needed. It is a traditional part of Irish cuisine that is often baked in skillets over coals.  Preparation is a one bowl mix, shaping the wet dough into a ball, placed in baking pan, and first baked at a high temperature, then finished off at a lower, yet still high, temperature.  This bread was created out of necessity due to the Irish Potato Famine of the 1800s.  Now here is a very interesting historical tidbit, this bread did not originate in Ireland, but from the Native Americans of the United States of America.  The natives used pearl ash which is a naturally formed “soda” from wood ashes, and acted as the leavening agent.  Their technique and recipe made it back to the Old-World countries, with actual sodium bicarbonate used instead of wood ash.  Sour milk was the liquid ingredient, but was later changed to buttermilk. Buttermilk reacts better with the soda to give an even rise, soft interior texture, and a tangy flavor to the bread.

Eaten plain, Irish soda bread is just that.  However, warmed up, smeared with butter and drizzled with honey, it becomes a perfect light breakfast, or snack for during the day.  It is best used for sopping up gravy and sauce from various dishes, such as stews, chili, and soups.  We even used it to sop up excess sauce from a stuffed shells meal, delicioso!

So, with St. Patrick’s Day coming soon, perhaps a round, crusty Irish soda bread to go along with the Irish stew, or corned beef and cabbage?

 

Traditional Irish Soda Bread

Ingredients:

3 and ½ cups flour

1 and 1/2 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. salt

1 and 3/4 cups buttermilk

 

 

 

 

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 450F. 

Combine flour, baking soda and salt in a large mixing bowl.

Gradually add the buttermilk, stirring with rubber spatula.  If dough is too sticky, add a tablespoon of flour.

When dough is still wet, but not sticky, turn out onto a floured workspace. Shape dough into a ball.  Pat the ball in a round loaf to fit into a nonstick 9-inch baking pan. Place dough inside pan, but make sure it does not touch the sides of the pan.  Score an X on top of the loaf, approximately 1/4 inch deep.

   

Bake on center rack of oven for 20 minutes.  Do not remove pan from oven, but turn oven temperature down to 400F.  Bake for an additional 20-30 minutes, until the loaf sounds hollow when tapped.  Cool on wire rack before slicing and serving.

Makes one round loaf.

Mary Cokenour