Nursery Rhyme Recipes - Shortenin' Bread and Pease Porridge.

"Put on the skillet, put on the lid

Mama's gonna make a little short'nin' bread

That ain't all s Mama's gonna do

She's gonna make a little coffee, too

Mama's little baby loves short'nin', short'nin',

Mama's little baby loves short'nin' bread

Mama's little baby loves short'nin', short'nin'

Her little baby loves short'nin' bread"

James Whitcomb Riley wrote a poem, published in 1900, based upon a song that had been sung by plantation slaves.  Rewritten in 1915, it became a folk song which relayed the hardships of being a plantation slave, and, not just adults, but small children starved to death while asleep in bed.  The song became popularized in 1948 with its release on the album, The Greatest Guest, by the Andrew Sisters.

For those of you whose eyes just popped at the mention of the Andrew Sisters, Maxene, Patty and Laverne were a spectacular trio during the 1930s, 40s and 50s.  They appeared in several movies, including “Buck Privates” and “Hold That Ghost” with Abbott and Costello, and “Road to Rio” with Bob Hope and Bing Crosby.  Their most popular song is “Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy”, (1941), and brought back into the limelight by Bette Midler.

By the time the Andrew Sisters sang “Shortenin’ Bread”, the detrimental meanings, behind the song were lost, and it was often looked at as a simple "nursery rhyme" mothers sang to their children.

A recipe I found, for Shortenin’ Bread, reads as follows: Cream together one stick of oleo margarine with a quarter-cup of light brown sugar, then mix in 1¼ cups of flour. Roll the resulting crumbly dough out on a floured board until it’s about a half-inch thick, then use a fruit jar or jelly glass to cut it out into rounds.  Put the rounds in a greased and floured shallow pan, bake at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes

This recipe sounded so familiar and then I had a “Duh!” moment.  This is when it can be referred back to the San Juan Record article of December 31, 2021, and recipe from The Mormon Pioneer Cookbook for Scottish Shortbread.  Only three ingredients, but confectioners' sugar is used while shortenin' bread uses light brown sugar; measurements are the same for both recipes.  While slaves used lard, margarine is the next best substitute for butter.  Many plantations also harvested sugar cane, and workers were given rations of sugar or molasses.

So, it did make me wonder how a recipe of the 1800s was so similar between Mormon pioneers, and plantation slaves.  Coincidence, I do not believe in those; so, a bit of digging into history was called for. 

Wikipedia article, Mormonism and Slavery, Brigham Young and Joseph Smith were, initially, proslavery.  Smith began to change his views on this issue, and by 1844, his campaign, for President of the United States, ran on an anti-slavery platform. However, this was also the year that he was murdered in Illinois.  Brigham Young led the followers to Utah, and helped to make Utah a "slave state".  One of his teachings was, "inasmuch as we believe in the ordinances of God, in the Priesthood and order and decrees of God, we must believe in slavery".  This quote is taken from, The Teachings of President Brigham Young: Vol. 3 1852–1854, Fred C. Collier, Colliers Publishing Company.

Slaves worked the kitchens of their masters, and used the recipes they were taught by them.  Taking the same recipes and adapting them to provisions available to the slaves was simple enough.  They made do with what they had, or could get their hands on without getting caught.

I baked up a batch, following the recipe I found. While they were good, they were not as sweet as the Scottish type.  The texture was firmer and not as melt-in-the-mouth, so butter does make it better.  Using a ¼ measuring cup as the mold, I was able to create 10 cookies, as that is truly what they are…cookies.  A little hint, a smear of lemon curd, or prickly pear jelly, does a cookie good.

 

Flour Added

Cream Margarine and Brown Sugar

Roll Out Dough

Cut Out Circles of Dough

Before Baking

Let Cool Completely

Next nursery rhyme is Peas Porridge, later reworded as Pease Porridge.  This is going back later in time, around the Medieval Era, but the song relates to the same theme: starvation.

In those olden days, cooking was done with a big kettle that always hung over a fire. Every day the fire was lit, and ingredients added, such as beans, grains, vegetables, and sometimes meat, if lucky.  This stew was for dinner, leftovers stayed in the pot, got cold overnight, and the whole process started over the next day. Nothing was thrown away, only added to.  Sometimes the stew had food in it that had been there for quite a while, hence the rhyme, "Peas porridge hot, peas porridge cold, peas porridge in the pot nine days old."

Cooking over an open fire, fueled by wood, coal or peat could be compared to modern cooking via crock pot.  Slow, over low heat, and taking many hours to complete.  This became the typical cooking method for those labeled as peasants; eking out a living in agriculture and/or animal husbandry.

According to Merriam-Webster Dictionary, in the 16th century, this stew was called "pottage", and it was not until the 17th century that the word "porridge" was created.  In 1760 the song was published as a nursery rhyme with creator's name unknown.  "Peas" was changed to "Pease" which is a generalized term for oatmeal, since this was the main ingredient for porridge or pudding.   However, in the United Kingdom, pease pudding, also known as pease porridge, is a savory pudding dish made of boiled legumes, typically split yellow peas, with water, salt and spices, and often cooked with bacon or a ham joint.

I was able to find a recipe for Pease Porridge on the food blog, The Spruce Eats, which does not include bacon or ham, but no one will complain if you add either in.  It is rather long in preparation, but you can find the recipe here:  https://www.thespruceeats.com/easy-pease-pudding-recipe-435628

There you have it, two nursery rhymes, sung even in this day and age, and both referring to starvation.  Like Grimm’s Fairy Tales, a bit of darkness can be hidden within a tale meant for children.

Mary Cokenour